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Muay Thai Boxing for kids

300px Wat Phra Kaew%2C Bangkok Muay Thai Boxing for kids

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We went to Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace, from 1782, the first ear of Bangkok rule by Rama I. A line of tuk-tuk drivers waited outside. “It’s closed,” they all said. “Reopens at 1PM. Come with me, I’ll take you shopping, have a friend with an amazing sale on gems…” We walked past them into the palace. The place was like Disneyland. Very baroque temple architecture: Adventureland, Fantasyland, it was sculpted with tailfins and was beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. Although I’d passed a travel test by not listening to anything a tuk-tuk driver tells me, I failed one by getting the CD audio guide (the rule is, never get one for anything that’s not an indoor art museum). It was useless, and trying to find my way back to return it took forever. The temperature soared to 105 and we had to wear long pants. It was the first place in Bangkok where we saw tourists – either nobody goes during the hot season or Bangkok’s so large it absorbs them all nicely – lots of Japanese tourists and not much else. The sun was three inches from my head. I drank a gallon of water. We then went to the Vimanek Teak Mansion, the world’s largest golden teak building, a 3-story 81-room mansion from 1910, a nice complex where the prince and his sister lived for awhile with some fine displays of old photos of turn-of-the-century Siamese ceremonies. Dilek and Cos left the house without telling us to buy ice cream. We searched the entire top floor, where the temperature was more like 205 than 105, and finally we left and found them under a tree happily eating ice cream, and I screamed at Dilek. I really let her have it. Cos always wanders off, partly because he’s an idiot and partly to get away from Dilek, but Dilek should know better. We saw some boring Thai dancing in an outdoor pavillion there. We ate in an outdoor restaurant on the grounds which was for the workers and groundskeeps. The food was amazing and far too spicy. I have no idea how people in hot climates eat spicy food.

We went to the Dusit Zoo, which on the map looked like it was next door, it probably was, but we couldn’t find it and it was too hot. We asked some people where it was, and they couldn’t understand. They couldn’t read the Thai in my Lonely Planet. I pointed to a billboard advertising the zoo and then shugged my shoulders and asked “where?” and they still didn’t understand. The Thai people are very nice but completely thick when it comes to body language, sign language, barely mispronouncing words, etc. (Their language has five different tones, rising and falling, and if you don’t say the word with the correct tone, forget it.) We found the zoo and it didn’t have much in the way of animals, though we were very impressed by the multicolored monkeys (Pythagrix Nemaeus: the Donc Langur (Douc Langur?). We sat down in a park there and a family gave us all mangoes and helped us cut them. We told them we were from Turkey. Such nice people.

We went to Lumphini stadium to see Muay Thai boxing. We arrived early and the windows were closed, but official-looking sellers came up to us in yellow “VIP” jackets and asked us if we wanted to sit or stand. I recognized this as a scam immediately – there were cheap standing areas, and there were sitting areas, and there was ringside, and I knew they’d say that the only area left to sit in would be ringside, and it was a weeknight and there was no way it was sold out, so I said I’ll buy tickets later. They got confused and followed us for awhile, but we waited. We gave up on being vegetarian just for this vacation and bought spicy meatballs on a stick from a crazy guy who sang to us. They were yummy and he asked where we were from and we said Turkey and he said Galatasaray. Soccer makes the world go round. Eventually the window opened and we bought non-ringside seats.

The preliminary bouts were the hardest to take, for they start out at the lowest weight categories, which meant we were watching a couple of 15-year-olds beat the crap out of each other. After the first round, the betting starts, and middle-aged men stand up and scream out their bets. The first bout had one kid beating another kid, and he was clearly the favorite. Then, suddenly, he gave what looked like a nice kick to the other guy’s head, except instead of the other guy falling down, he himself fell down, flat on his back, from exhaustion, and was carried off on a stretcher. The second fight was also two boys, one of which was like Randall “Tex” Cobb. He never connected and always got hit, and kicked, and hit, but he would not fall. It was disgusting. Finally, he did go down, and was carried off on a stretcher. In fact, most of the fights ended in a knockout, and most of the knockouts ended in one guy completely immobile, carried off on a stretcher. It was great fun. I ate roasted watermelon seeds and spit them on the floor. Life is good. It’s time to head north.

Wat Arun is evil

At breakfast we saw Rana and Engin and they said nothing to us and we said nothing to them. We went to the huge temple, Wat Pho

300px Wat Arun%2C Temple of the Dawn Wat Arun is evil

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, with its mammoth reclining Buddha, 15meters high, with gold leaf and mother-of-pearl inlay for the eyes and feet. It’s the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok and has the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand. They had dozens of Ramakien murals featuring their version of the Indian epic Ramayana, and we liked the Chinese Rock giants with weapons in their hands guarding the Sheltered Gate. It was again over 100 degrees outside. Bangkok was having a heat wave. It wasn’t supposed to be this hot until mid-April. Cos and I got 1/2-hour massages at Wat Pho, where they have a little school. We paid 50 cents extra to get clean sheets. They had a fan. The woman who massaged me looked like a middle-aged owl, with cokebottle glasses and a moustache. She didn’t massage me so much as manipulate my body into grotesque contortions. She cracked my knuckles on my fingers and toes. I will have to buy a book on Thai massage. Being bent pleases me more than being rubbed.

We took a ferry to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, named after Aruna, the Indian god of dawn. Its prang (Khmer-style tower) has a plaster covering embedded with a mosaic of broken multicolered Chinese porcelain (from then the Cheinese ships calling at Bangkok used tons of old porcelain as ballast). Wat Arun is a small place, it is a lovely place, but it is an evil place. It’s right on the river on the opposite side with an incredible view of Bangkok, but we paid three times to get in there. When you get there, they request a donation and show you a book where everyone paid 100 baht. So we left 100 baht (usual admission is 40). Then they have these two cutout figures of goofy monks where you can put your heads through and take a picture. We snapped a picture of Dilek and Cos with their heads in it, and a man appeared out of nowhere and demanded 80 baht from Dilek. It says at the bottom of the life-sized figures, in tiny one-inch-high blue letters on a blue background, 40B. Finally you get to the wat, which you can climb around, and it says “Admission 40 baht.” I said that we already paid, but the front desk payment was just an optional donation. (Every temple has one, but they put the admission at the admission and the optional donation inside). A nasty trick, and by now I was pissed, but we’d crossed the river and it was 100 degrees outside and we ponied up our third payment. I started to climb and was stopped by a man demanding 20 baht to rent a sarong to cover my legs with “out of respect.” Only one or two places in Thailand, such as the Grand Palace, demand that you cover your legs, and I knew that Wat Arun wasn’t demanding it out of respect. So I opened my backpack and put on my slacks over my shorts right there. I climbed and sweated. It was beautiful. I hated it.

From there we piled in a 3-wheeled tuk-tuk (a basically motorcycle with a covered cart behind it) to get to a Portugese church. Elif yelled at me because piling 4 people in a tuk-tuk instead of a 2-rowed songthlaew meant that we were literally sitting on top of each other, but we made it there OK. We ended up in a poor area of teak houses over little streams and tiny, tiny alleys that looked like some kind of Venetian ghetto (mixed with something out of The Deer Hunter). Even though the houses were decrepit and they were living over smelly, garbagey, muddy streams loaded with mosquitoes, they had amazing little gardens and birds in cages which looked well tended-to. We went to the church and then to a temple nearby where a monk was sleeping under a huge bell. It was too hot. I again suggested we go back to the hotel to swim. They were thrilled.

Supergirls in Patpong

300px PatPong Dancer Supergirls in Patpong

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We met Rana and Erhan for breakfast downstairs at the Maxx Hotel and they said, let’s go to the Weekend Market! Since that was where we were going, I couldn’t say no. The experience with them was dreadful. Erhan knew only three things in English: the numbers; the phrase “What is your final price?”; and “too expensive”, and he used them interchangeably. He never bought anything, and it took him about 30 minutes to leave each seller, which inevitably resulted in the seller meeting the ridiculously low number Erhan gave him and Erhan still not buying the thing. We bought lots of orchid bulbs and a marionette. I had an ovaltine shake. They had everything from rare animals to putatively rare antiques. Lots of Osama Bin Laden shirts for young punks to purchase, the way America revels in Charles Manson. After two hours we were done and left them. We walked to the Skytrain, passing an impressive array of lepers, clubfooted men, gangrene sufferers, and burn victims. And dogs with bloody balls. Lots of them. I don’t know what it is about Thailand, but all the dogs of both sexes seemed to have bleeding genitalia. We took the Skytrain to the Jim Thompson House, a lovely teak home and gardens that an American expat made after he founded his silk empire in the 1950′s and before he disappeared mysteriously in 1967. We went to a noodle shop and made the mistake of ordering our food “not too spicy, just medium.” In Thai, that translates to “hotter than drinking straight habanero sauce”. Dilek and I were on fire. We each ordered ice-drinks pictured on the menu. One was bright green and the other was bright pink. The green one tasted like bubble gum. The pink one tasted like very concentrated bubble gum.

Then we went to Lumphini Park. People were paddling in paddle boats. Others were lifting weights. Others were watching Elif to see if she was watching them lift weights. Sikhs were jogging in their pants and turbans. It was 105 degrees outside. We slept under a tree. I said, let’s go back to the hotel to swim, and then we can go to Patpong. They thought it was a great idea, especially the first part.

Back at the hotel we bumped into Rana and Erhan, who wanted to come to Patpong with us. Fine with me; I’d feel safer going with the mountain that is Erhan than just with the molehill that is Cos. The taxi dropped us off at Soi 1, and the second we stepped out of the car, people were coming up to Cos and Erhan (not me) and asking them if they wanted a woman. Down the entire Soi, women were standing in packs, and it was shocking: they were wearing dresses and makeup, and they looked grrrreat. Thai women were much more attractive than I’d expected, and it felt nervewracking for me to be suddenly so attractive to so many beautiful women. I’d expected drugged-and-beaten-looking whores like in NYC, or boyish stickfigure 13-year-olds like they say Bangkok has, but instead I find myself in the wetdream sequence in Fellini’s 8 1/2. Which one do I want? How could I ever choose? We walked to the end and found the sidestreets with more specialized tastes – mostly gay – and at the main avenue which the Soi led into (Thanon Sukhumvit), there was a night bazaar. We saw a Sizzler Steakhouse and Erhan and Rana and Cos went to eat there. Dilek, Elif and I (the cool ones) ate Korean food. We reconvened on the street and I saw a man selling fried bugs from a pushcart. He had maggots, cockroaches, grasshoppers, and frogs. I’d eaten frogs in Florida so I ordered a goodie bag of a mix of the first three. I hadn’t learned the Thai numbers yet and he said what was probably 15 baht. I misheard him as 50 ($1.10). He was very happy. Nobody else wanted to share in my quarry. I started with a maggot, which was a mistake, as it was the chewiest of the three. The grasshoppers were my favorite, as they had the most texture and their legs poked the insides of my cheeks in unexpected places. I later grew to like the maggots.

I wanted to go to a sex show in a larger place, as I’d heard that the massage parlors were creep joints and that the smaller shows were fine until you wanted to leave – then some large bouncers would demand a sort of “exit tax.” King’s Castle had a chain of three places on Soi 1&2 and Pussy Galore was on Soi 2, but I was looking for Supergirls, which was recommended, and I couldn’t find it yet. Elif’s stomach was hurting and she wanted to sit down, so we took the logical choice and went into a gogo bar. They had no cover but their beers were an outrageous 90 baht ($2.05) apiece, which I guess was your entertainment charge. There was a small stage in the middle of the room. Surrounding it on all four sides was a bar with high chairs, at which we sat. Cos and Dilek sat against the back wall. The show consisted of about a dozen girls dancing in colored underwear. Some had implants. This was not the Bangkok I’d heard about…or was it? Every so often, one of them would get nude and dance a little and put her clothes back on. Across from us was a man being rubbed down by three of these girls. Some would disappear into the back room. I realized that this was an indoor version of what we were seeing outside. We decided to drink up and leave. Then a dancer takes an interest in me. She comes over and slithers down. She smiles. I smile. She makes her second and third fingers in a V and flickers her tongue between them in what is obviously some international sign language for cunnilingus. I look at Elif. Elif says, “Go with it.” I smile back to the woman and mimic her gesture. I feel like I am Woody Allen having fun with Diane Keaton in “Sleeper.” The woman then takes my head and pushes it down into her lap. She holds it there. I realize that I have to do something in order to get my head back. I kiss her left thigh with an exaggerated smacking sound. She releases my head. She smiles. I smile. I look at Elif. It is getting time to leave. The bartender, a stern middle-aged woman, walks out from behind the bar and goes behind me. The dancer, still smiling, makes the international cunnilingus gesture again. Before I can postulate what more could she want, she pulls open her panties with her left hand, pulls down my head with her right, and now the bartender-who-is-now-a-madam is forcing my upper back down from behind. I have laid down with some skanks in my time but there is no way I am going to eat out this woman. I play dead for a second and pull my head back, smile, and take my drink back to Dilek and Cos. Elif gets the check. The bill is for 480 baht. We leave 500. The bartender wants more. We say the tip’s on there. We walk quickly out the door. Rana discovers her purse has been opened but everything’s still inside.

We’re out on the street again. I want to find Supergirls. I want to see a show but do not want to fulfill the aims of 20th century theater by tearing down the 4th wall. A tout walks over to us and Elif, feeling better, inexplicably starts to flirt with him. What would you like to see, he asks. We have everything. Elif teases him. Will I learn a lot? Will I be better in bed? Will I be able to shoot ping pong balls across a room for my husband? Yes, yes, and yes! Then Elif says we’ll eat and come back. The tout doesn’t buy it. The tout starts to get upset. Not angry; nobody gets angry; but whiny. Why you lie to me? He asks? I tell him, you should know by now not to trust a woman. The tout pauses and laughs heartily. We finally escape. Nobody else approaches us but in front of all the doors along Soi 2 there they are, hawking their wares, carrying laminated menus of performances that you will see inside. All the shows are the same. I am glad. People come to Patpong for one of two reasons – to put something into a woman or to see something shoot out of a woman – and I am definitely here for the latter.

We find Supergirls, finally. It should have been easy, but it was at the end of Soi 2. In front were men and women dressed in Superman capes, red white and blue with an S emblazoned on the chests. This looks like the place for me. We’re going in. Erhan has heard enough and is taking Rana home. See ya! Forget to write!

Supergirls is less impressive inside. It’s kindof small. The first act is a woman with chopsticks. She tosses rings all over the stage. She squats on the chopsticks until they are satisfactorily inside her. She then manages to pick up the rings, one at a time, with said chopsticks, and deposit each ring around a whiskey bottle. I am impressed. The next girl descends from the ceiling into a large champagne-glass bathtub and wiggles around in the bubble bath. It is quite boring, but by now a Laotian prostitute has come over to our table to talk to us. She flirts with me. I have learned my lesson. She flirts with Elif. She has learned her lesson. She guesses all of our ages. She gets all of ours correct except guesses Cos as being younger than he is. She calls Cos Papa. She senses that we do not want to fuck her. We do not want to see her naked. She is soggy and her belly is hanging out. But we do want to talk. We learn that she is 28 years old and has a 6-year-old boy in Vientiane. She does not like working here very much. It took her three days to give birth. She gave birth by C-section. The scar was a mammoth one, and it ran vertically down below her underwear, which she started to open for us to show how long it was but I believed it ran down there. Dilek fell in love with her and gave her a dollar. I gave her a dollar. She was very nice, but about halfway through I started to lose interest, for at the end of the bar was one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen in my life. This woman was about 18, maybe 20. She was one of the dozen or so women on the planet who have a perfect face as well as a perfect body. She undressed. I thought that maybe that was her show, that all she would do would be to dance around, or maybe hang out and take the stage. Her presence in the room was like Selma Hayek in “From Dusk To Dawn” – Selma wriggled with the snake, but, as Woody Allen says, 80% of her success was in just showing up.

The most beautiful woman in the world took the stage. Someone taped balloons on the poles on the stage and gave balloons out to some audience members. Elif said, “God, she’s beautiful.” The woman lied on her back and spread her legs. She inserted a tube into herself. She put a dart into the end of the tube. The dart looked like a small new year’s party favor with a long point stuck into the end. She took aim with fierce determination and squeezed her legs and the dart shot out and popped a balloon. She had no trouble with the first six balloons or so but as the balloons thinned out she started missing. There was no question of whether she would be allowed to give up, or that she would give up. She concentrated and kept shooting. The darts were starting to fall short. Finally she finished the balloons on the stage. Now she started on the ones in the audience. I covered my head. Elif held her balloon way out in front of her. The woman finished her act. I gave her a dollar as well. We gave a few cents to a friend of the Laotian so she wouldn’t feel left out either. The Laotian took one last look at Elif and felt her face, lovingly stroking her cheekbones. She asked what the Thai cop had asked the day before: “How you get so beautiful?” We told her she was beautiful too and went home.

Chinatown

 Chinatown

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We ditched the tour we bought tickets with. One couple, our age, wanted to come with us since we spoke English. We said OK. The woman Rana was fine but her husband Erhan was not. We went to Chinatown, which was ten times the excitement of NYC’s. All kinds of food, cooked, uncooked being sold right on the street, a crowded lane where you jostle and elbow your way through hordes of no tourists. Elif and I treated it as the world’s largest open-air dim sum restaurant. Hey, Dilek, Cos, you wanna try this slimy green ricecakey thing? Munch, munch. Rana and Erhan looked sullen and ate nothing. We walked through the Indian District and saw a Sikh temple, a large hall with a mosque-like interior, devoted to the worship of the last of the religion’s 10 great teachers – not a teacher at all but a holy book, the 16th-century Guru Granth Sahib. A man inside was very, very nice to us. Come to free breakfast tomorrow. He took our picture in front of the altar, so long as our back was not to it. We sort of stood sideways. Erhan stayed downstairs, saying he’d seen lots of them in India and didn’t need to come up with us. He said he couldn’t eat anything in India and lost 10 kilograms there. I couldn’t imagine how he would look any different sans 10 kilograms. We went to Wat Traimit, with a huge 3-meter, 5 1/2-ton, solid-gold Buddha in front of a curtain. The Sukhothai-style Buddha was “discovered” 40 years ago underneath a plastic exterior, which had saved it from the marauding of the Burmese in the 1700′s. It was a nice complex but the wat had no character at all. You can take a jar with numbered chopsticks, which you shake until your lucky number comes out; then you go over to some cubicles, put in a 10 baht coin, and take your fortune from the shelf with your chosen number. I knew nothing about this, so I walked over to the shelf, thought for a minute, and took out my fortune under shelf number 8. It read, all is lost, and what is lost cannot be regained, no lucks. I thought about my dead cat Sara. Walking out, we asked some policemen how to get to the Royal Theater. They told us and then one asked Elif, “How you get so beautiful?” How indeed. She said, you must have beautiful eyes. I knew right away that was too complex a thought to go across languages, and he took it literally and took off his sunglasses and showed us his eyes. His eyes were indeed beautiful. He said I am very lucky man. Lucky indeed.

We then walked around in the heat looking for the Royal Theater where it said there was Thai dancing on weekends. We finally found it after asking lots of very nice people on the street. There were no Italians in sight. We went into the theater. They were showing a Pokemon movie and no Thai dancing. So we all went to ride the Chao Phraya River Express Taxi up the canal. We saw the world’s longest suspension bridge and some temple wats and lots of teak houses. The canal docks and takes off within a matter of milliseconds. The boy managing it would blow his whistle in my ear and smash the boat on the pier, passengers would leap aboard, some would make it, others wouldn’t, and we’d take off. The boy got into a fight with a gay guy who bitched about him for what seemed like hours. Then the boy smoked a cigarette that smelled funny. His eyes turned red and he seemed happier. We went to dinner at the Seafood Market. Erhan had a printout about the place from the internet. We ate there because he could have Turkish food made for him there. You sit down and Thai women dressed in blue skirts take you with her shopping cart over to the ice trays and aquariums, where you point to what you want to eat. Then you pay with her at the register and sit back down. Then a waiter takes your order of how you want it cooked, you eat, and pay him again for cooking it. So we got to pay twice for an OK meal. Erhan smoked and smoked. I think about how many people Erhan would feed if he were cooked.

Turkmenistan Airlines

300px PresidentialPalaceAshgabat Turkmenistan Airlines

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Instead of flying the swanky Turkish Airlines ($599 direct to Bangkok), we chose Turkmenistan Airlines‘ $431 blue-light special (no website), with a stopover in Ashgabad. I asked the guy at check-in if they had a frequent-flier program, and he gave me this look like, give me a break, we’ve only had a country for a few years!

The plane was a standard-issue 757-200 but it looked decrepit on the inside – ratty carpets, fraying seat cushions, no reading material, and no TV’s hanging from their brackets. The Turkmen passengers were amazing to look at. The enormous women wore enormous rainbow-colored robes and turbans. They smelled like goats and their top teeth were all plated in gold. They had no familiarity with the concept of assigned seating and sat where they wanted. The stewards and stewardesses had no familiarity with the concept of being a steward or stewardess. To get the Turkmens to go to their assigned seats they said things like “Come on now, get up, let’s see you move it, already.” They could not get the passengers to stop smoking in the bathroom. Every few rows was a picture of the king with very bushy eyebrows, grinning, wearing a lot of gold on his hand and a powder blue suit. The plane took off making six sharp 90-degree turns to the left that made me wonder of the hydraulics were working properly. They fly one flight a week out of Istanbul, and the food tasted like it was from four or five flights ago. Their alcohol towelette had mold on it.

We landed in Ashkabad and stayed there for three hours. One other plane landed during that time, from Moscow. I drank a chocolate liquor called Balzama. It tasted like a mixture of chocolate, bourbon, and shoe-leather. An Indian passenger connecting from Kazakhstan to New Delhi was in trouble. They When his bag didn’t come out of baggage claim, he asked a soldier about it, and the soldier asked to see his passport and then walked away with it. The Indian asked me to ask for his passport back. I talked to the soldiers in Turkish. They answered back (in Turkmen) that their “hundred-head” boss would give the man the passport back when he was boarding the plane. We talked about Istanbul and Ashgabad and soccer. The soldiers grinned a lot and looked like they came out of a Kusturica film. They had hats with extremely wide berets.

We arrived in Bangkok at 2AM. It was a balmy 31 degrees Celsius outside.